Americans rarely get to enjoy an immersive experience riding along the rails. Amtrak does provide sterile comfort in its Acela cars. In contrast, summer 1982, my friend and I rode a British Rail Sleeper train from London to Edinburgh (ed-in-bruh or ed-in-buh-ruh, Quora.com). A night journey leaving at 22:30 (10:30 pm), we didn't have much time to admire the locomotive. And being a morning person, I could barely keep my eyes open until widened by the train's interior. Our attendant led us to our cabin. No sliding glass or metal doors: the polished oak portal with its brass handle invited us in as the uniformed gentleman provided the necessary details about our sleeper and the w.c. down the corridor.
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(Caledonian Sleeper Train compartment - Google images) |
After the engine lurched the locomotive forward, later that night I got a wake-up call, literally and figuratively. Unbeknownst to either of us, the sleeper was also a mail train. With every break squeak and lunging progression, my circadian rhythm went amok: think of Stephen Glass vs. Brahms or in current music circles, Foo Fighters vs. John Legend. So in time, I surrendered to the experience and tried to count the number of stops until my body acquiesced. Two hours, give or take, sleep and then the train came to a complete stop.
That moment brought relief, like the easing of the steam engine, pure silence, eyes leaden and heavy, "Ah, at last!" I thought.
"Knock, knock!" The firm announcement that our attendant, I'd believed, had wanted to enter.
A "One moment, please," from me, in behalf of my friend, and we scurried to collect ourselves.
With his delightful, somewhat bemused West End accent, the gentleman, instead, remained outside the door and gave us a genuine wake-up call of 7 am, along with "Ladies, breakfast will be served in ten minutes." My favorite part of the trip as he entered with trays carrying our continental meal--Earl Gray tea, crusty rolls, English, and orange marmalade and jams.
In short time, we freshened up using the in-cabin sink and then joined the queue for the loo (Couldn't help that one, a recovering Anglophile).
When the conductor came along to give us our disembarkation time, my normally cranky self after little sleep, felt disappointed. I wanted to stay longer to absorb every detail now revealed in daylight. Not to be, as the attendant reminded us politely, we had to leave. Cheers!
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(Class 56 diesel loco - Google Images) |
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